A HUGE THANK YOU TO ALBERTO MONTORSI AND EDOARDO MONTORSI, BOTH MOUNTAIN GUIDES OF THE WHITE E BLUE MOUNTAIN GUIDES GROUP, FOR RE-EQUIPPING SOME OF THE ROUTES OF THE CRAG DURING SUMMER/AUTUMN 2026, CLEANING IT UP PERFECTLY AND MAKING IT EVEN MORE ENJOYABLE AND SAFE!

THANK YOU FROM THE BOTTOM OF MY HEART, MY BROTHERS!!!!

Text by Mountain Guide Carlo Alberto Montorsi, to whom goes my personal THANK YOU for the work done.

AND TO ALL OF YOU, HAVE FUN, TEX

Lo Scudo dei Celti is a small sport climbing crag at about 1,650 metres above sea level, just beyond Lago Baccio in the Modena Apennines, with 10 routes from 4c to 6c+. The wall, which keeps its original name, had already been bolted in the past, but in 2026 it was completely cleaned and re-bolted by our mountain guides Carlo Alberto Montorsi and Edoardo Montorsi, together with Massimo Bernardi (Tex), manager of Rifugio Vittoria: we restored the old lines and added a few new routes.

Heartfelt thanks to Andrea of Reggio Gas, who donated part of the gear used on the wall.

The crag is about a 40-minute walk from the Lago Santo Modenese car park, in the municipality of Pievepelago (MO), surrounded by high meadows and woods, with a fine view of Lago Baccio, Monte Cimone and Monte Rondinaio.

The routes of Lo Scudo dei Celti: names and grades

The 10 routes of Lo Scudo dei Celti range from 4c to 6c+ and are split between the main sector, with 7 routes, and the right-hand pillar, with 3 routes. Routes are roughly 15 to 25 metres long and are numbered from left to right, as in the topos.

Main sector

The main sector has seven routes, numbered from left to right.

Right-hand pillar

The right-hand pillar has three routes and is reached via a short fixed rope leading to the starting ledge. Rido Poco lies beyond the arête of the pillar: to reach its start there is another short section equipped with a fixed rope.

Who the crag is for

Lo Scudo dei Celti is best suited to climbers who already climb 6a and 6b: seven routes out of ten are between 6b and 6c+. On the hardest routes the bolts are very close together, so you can push beyond your usual level safely. The two 4c routes, Diedro Bruno e Ivana and Gianni e Pinotto, are good for warming up or for letting beginners have a go; Gianni e Pinotto is reached via the fixed rope of the pillar.

Beginners will find more suitable terrain at the Palestra di roccia dei Celti, a little further down near Lago Baccio: ten slab routes of about 10 metres, seven of them between 4a and 5c.

Rock and climbing style

The rock of Lo Scudo dei Celti is Macigno sandstone, typical of the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines, offering very varied climbing on crimps, flakes, corners, cracks and arêtes. In some respects it is reminiscent of granite climbing.

The variety of holds and shapes makes the routes quite different from one another and technically interesting. If you want to understand how climbing style changes with the type of rock, the guides of White e Blue Mountain Guides explain it in their guide to what a crag is (in Italian).

Bolting and anchors: the 2026 re-bolting

All routes were re-bolted in 2026 with 10 mm stainless steel bolts and end at a chain with a lowering carabiner. The original bolting, quite spaced in places, has been made closer to make climbing safer and in line with a modern sport crag.

Thanks to the carabiner at the anchor you can be lowered straight away, without having to thread the rope. During the work we also removed loose blocks and cleared the vegetation that interfered with the lines.

A freshly re-bolted crag only stays beautiful if those who climb there respect it!!

Aspect, altitude and best season

The crag faces east: it gets the sun mainly in the morning and goes into shade at around 2 pm, so you can climb from April to November choosing the time of day according to the season. In spring and autumn it is best to arrive early and climb in the sun; in summer you can start later and enjoy the afternoon shade, helped by the altitude of about 1,650 metres.

The season is only a guide and depends on temperatures, the condition of the wall and any snow.

How to get to Lo Scudo dei Celti

Park at Lago Santo Modenese and walk to the crag in about 40 minutes, following CAI trail 523 beyond Lago Baccio and then a path marked by cairns.

By car: the Lago Santo Modenese car park

The starting point is the Lago Santo Modenese car park, in the municipality of Pievepelago (MO). Parking is paid: it currently costs €4 per day.

On foot: from Lago Baccio to the foot of the wall

From the car park follow CAI trail 523 towards Monte Rondinaio and pass Lago Baccio, keeping it on your left. The crag is already visible in the distance on the right, just beyond a small wood.

Shortly after the lake, before the main trail enters the wood, leave trail 523 and follow a path marked by several cairns. The path first crosses the meadow and then enters the wood, where it is still marked by cairns and climbs straight up towards the wall.

Out of the wood you reach the scree below the crag: from here, with no set route, climb up to the foot of the routes. The approach takes about 40 minutes from the car park.

GPS coordinates of the foot of the crag: 44.12482 N, 10.58639 E (open the location in Google Maps). The point marks the wall: to get there on foot follow the description above, because the last section follows a cairned path and not a marked trail.

Gear

To climb at Lo Scudo dei Celti you only need a 60 metre single rope, 14 quickdraws, harness and helmet. All anchors have a lowering carabiner, so no gear is needed to thread the chain. Short sections equipped with fixed ropes lead to the right-hand pillar and to the start of Rido Poco.

A small sector in a great setting

Lo Scudo dei Celti is not a big crag, but its setting is what makes it special. The ten routes let you spend a day climbing away from the busiest areas, in a truly mountain environment a few steps from Lago Baccio.

The variety of the rock, the new bolting, the chance to climb in the sun or in the shade and the view over the meadows and woods of the upper valley make it a destination that works very well both in spring and autumn, with the morning sun, and in summer, when the afternoon shade and the altitude make climbing pleasant.

Frequently asked questions about Lo Scudo dei Celti

Where is Lo Scudo dei Celti?
It is at about 1,650 metres above sea level just beyond Lago Baccio, in the municipality of Pievepelago (MO), in the Modena Apennines. The starting point is the Lago Santo Modenese car park.

How many routes are there, and how hard are they?
There are 10 routes from 4c to 6c+, roughly 15 to 25 metres long. Seven are in the main sector and three on the right-hand pillar.

How long is the approach?
About 40 minutes on foot from the Lago Santo Modenese car park. Follow CAI trail 523 beyond Lago Baccio and then a path marked by cairns.

When is the best time to climb at Lo Scudo dei Celti?
Roughly from April to November, depending on temperatures and snow. The wall faces east: it gets the sun in the morning and goes into shade at around 2 pm.

What gear do I need?
A 60 metre single rope, 14 quickdraws, harness and helmet. The anchors already have a lowering carabiner.

Is the crag suitable for beginners?
Only partly: there are two 4c routes, while the other eight range from 6a to 6c+. Beginners are better off at the Palestra di roccia dei Celti, a little further down, with short, easy slab routes.

WARNING

You climb at the crag at your own risk.

The area is a natural, uncontrolled mountain environment, exposed in winter to snow, ice and freeze-thaw cycles.
Rockfall, changes to the rock and deterioration of the protection are possible.

Always check the condition of the wall and of the equipment carefully before climbing.