Who it is for: beginners, children and courses
The Palestra di roccia dei Celti is made for learners: beginners, children, families and climbing courses. Its value lies not in the number or length of its routes but in its simplicity: short pitches, many easy grades and mostly slab climbing make it ideal for working on technique, correct footwork and balance.
Rock and climbing style
The rock is the same Macigno sandstone as the Scudo dei Celti, here generally compact and well textured, and most routes climb low-angle slabs. Balance, precision and a feel for the footholds matter more than strength or athleticism: this is why the sector is well suited to teaching and to improving technique.
Bolting: glue-in bolts and expansion bolts
The routes are equipped mostly with glue-in bolts, and some lines with 10 mm expansion bolts. In winter the sector is exposed to snow, ice and freeze-thaw cycles, which can alter the rock and the equipment: before climbing, always check the condition of the rock and of the protection.
Aspect, altitude and best season
The wall faces east and gets the sun until about 2 pm, but it stands in a tall, dense wood: the belayer is often in the shade, while the climber gets the sun at times. At about 1,600 metres and in a sheltered position, in a cool, wooded mountain setting, it is a good choice on hot days when you are looking for a quiet sector.
The indicative season runs from spring to autumn, assessing each time the condition of the wall, any snow and the humidity.
WARNING
Use of the crag is at your own risk.
The area is located in a natural, uncontrolled alpine environment, subject in winter to snow, ice and freeze-thaw.
Possible rockfall, changes to the rock and deterioration of the protection.
You are advised to carefully assess the condition of the wall and of the equipment before climbing.
How to get to the Palestra di roccia dei Celti
– Park at Lago Santo Modenese and reach the crag on foot in about 20 minutes, with an easy approach along CAI trail 523 to Lake Baccio.
– From the Rifugio Vittoria, follow CAI trail 523 towards Lake Baccio, one of the most pleasant walks in the Lago Santo area. At the lake, continue for a few minutes along the right-hand shore; shortly after, cross a small stream and enter a beech wood, where there is also a sign.
A few metres into the wood, looking to the right, you will see the small wall. From the car park it takes about 20 minutes.
GPS coordinates of the crag: 44.12967 N, 10.586866 E (open the location in Google Maps).
Gear
You need standard sport climbing gear: single rope, quickdraws, harness and helmet. A helmet is strongly recommended, both because of the mountain environment and because of the woods above and around the wall.
