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The Cold Tex Orgasms

Stefano Nesti and Massimo Bernardi on 23/12/05

i freddi orgasmi di tex

Difficulty: 3 + / III for the right line , the most challenging step mixed with some variants of the left.

Development : 18m

Location: Lake Saint to mount Giovo , Tuscan Emilian Apennines .

Access: From the road leading to Lake St. , at the last corner , follow the path that leads to Rondinaio . After about 20 minutes arrived at the lake Baccio it hugs the right way up. Where the forest ends about 100m above the lake bounded by the channel can be identified by the waterfall , which is not very important here .

Material: Single rope 60m , some screws and a friend average .
Material left : Cords stop .

Report: Looking at the casting is taking the right salt , going to look for the weaknesses of the route. You pass a ramp supported with thin ice and brings you below the vertical jump , then you pass vertically ( crack on the rock for good protection ) to gain the gentle ramp terminal with ephemeral ice that leads to the park.
The variants of the left, are almost identical in the basal parts and sommatali , but mixed with technical difficulties to overcome the central roof .

Descent: double shaft located above .

General considerations: The waterfall is rather wide and open to various interpretations , but only the right one is salibile with relatively low difficulty and with a decent chance to protect themselves. The climbing is never a given , and the thin ice makes it delicate , but at the same time fascinating. The variations are otherwise virtually improteggibili left by traditional means such as screws and joints , so I recommend to climb the top rope , as all the lines end at the same stop . These variants are the fun alternative to those who wish to practice in any step of dry-tooling , going in search of joints and connections with axes and crampons on rock also


Rifugio Vittoria


Affacciato al Lago Santo