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Between Hope and a Wish

Stefano Nesti and Marco Mason on 18/02/05

DesiderioDifficulty: III / 3 + / + M6
Development : 22m
Location: Lake Saint to mount Giovo , Tuscan Emilian Apennines .

Access: from the refuge Victoria, reachable by car , the falls can be glimpsed through the trees above the lake on the left end of the same looking from the shelter Victoria. From the hut the left coast of the lake, enter the wad of Pigs , and leave right away to go into the woods on the right. The way " better than nothing" is in the top set among the rocks, a prominent central stalactite . The ways " between a hope and a wish" , "petit couloir " and " partition wall " climb the foothills rocky lower right above the lake . 15mins from the shelter for low , 20 for the one above .

Material: On the way were left some nails and the cord of the park , but are also needed friend and nuts sometimes be connected to the nails or between them, given that the rock is not always excellent . It is recommended that a single 60m for convenience Carabiner . Profit a sling for a spike and an ice screw to be placed on top of the candle where the ice is thicker .

Report: Thanks to a beautiful but delicate column of ice about 4 feet , you gain a small terrace from which part of the section of rock. From this terrace of ice, crossed the roof top by a big rock , a fessurone oblique to the right and very steep , allows us to climb , offering small cracks in the blades of ice axes and various joints . The last meters are the most delicate with great stretch and engage precarious . For the last step is again taking on a thin strip of ice at the edge of the forest, from which moschettona stop placed at the trunk of a tree that hangs from the top right above us .

Descent: with a double to 25m .

General considerations: The futuristic line extremely athletic , long hoped and dreamed , represents a significant step forward in the evolution of ice climbing in central Italy. This way , in fact, is the first true dry tooling route of the Tuscan / Emilian , which paves the way for this type of climbing , allowing you to take advantage of glaciers until now neglected , hung here and on our walls . The road , as the rock he gave ample opportunity , has been equipped with protections classic , previously positioned . Highly recommended for lovers of strong sensations , anzionsi to go beyond the vertical axes and crampons .
CAUTION : Even if the length is modest , it is not a sport route , you must know how to protect and make safe criterion as well, there are no bolts to accommodate the falls, but the traditional protections of sandstone boulder ....

Rifugio Vittoria


Affacciato al Lago Santo