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Land and Ice

Stefano Nesti and Marco Mason on 07/02/05

Miraggio Terradi Terra e di Ghiaccio

Difficulty: ice IV / 3 M3 exit ; rock IV
Development : 55m

Location: Lake Saint to mount Giovo , Tuscan Emilian Apennines .

Access: From the hut, Victoria, reachable by car , the falls are visible in the bottom of the lake on the left. To reach along the lake on the right just below the lava . Avoid , even if frozen , to cross the lake directly . Time 20 minutes.

Material: 2 60m ropes , climbing equipment normally .

Material left : A piton place about three feet above the end of the ice, and cord stop onto the summit .

Report: Climbing up on ramps ephemeral ice , you reach the fringe of stalactites dangling from a roof of rock. This fringe , too thin and delicate to be addressed directly , we bypassed on the left , with passages of unstable mixture of rocks held together by the cold.
Beyond this delicate section of rock, it starts to climb on ice until its end , crossing to the right of the pillar of ice that leads to the source of the waterfall.
We get up a couple of feet beyond the end of the ice and on your right you will win a rocky tip of questionable strength ( nail left in the top right) , with which you earn a sloping terrace , and then trusting the frozen earth you enter the dihedral terminal .
You go up to the forest with a lot of caution sommatale , in fact the output is in the full " perfect condition " broken rock , dirty and not protectable (eye pens ) .

Descent: with a comfortable double sommatale 60m from the tree .

General considerations: The route is not extremely difficult, however , excellent mountaineering skills on both ice and rock , and the ability to move on shaky ground and virtually unprotected . The entire development apart from the piton left , only 2, 3 points of ice offer security guarantees decent , and mostly the guards are always far from the most delicate passages .
It is recommended to climb this route only with excellent cold conditions continued over time.

Rifugio Vittoria


Affacciato al Lago Santo