Climbing

A magnificent valley of glacial origin!

The Valley of Lake Baccio

That is, to bring sport climbing into a small corner of paradise.

 

Introduction

 

This magnificent glacial valley is part of the Monte Giovo/Rondinaio massif and in fact originates directly from the slopes of these two superb peaks, bordered and enclosed to the west by the Altaretto ridge.

Already well known and long appreciated by ski mountaineers and winter alpine climbers, this massif—and particularly this valley—had not yet attracted the interest of rock climbers.

It was in the summer of 2005, on the initiative of the undersigned Tex (Massimo Bernardi), with the fundamental support of Alpine Guide Luca Montanari, that the first idea of developing climbing in the valley took shape.

After several weeks of work, and thanks also to the administration of the Frignano Park—supportive of promoting the area through a new vertical perspective—the “Falesia dei Celti” came into being.

This natural rock climbing crag, whose name recalls the ancient populations that inhabited the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines in the early Middle Ages, demonstrated that valley climbing was indeed possible.

Since this first crag was modest in size and primarily designed for beginner climbers, the following year, 2006, I felt the need to offer, in “my lands,” a playground for those who already possessed some vertical experience.

This time, together with Stefano Nesti—also dedicated to the distinguished profession of Alpine Guide—we identified, in the winter of 2006, a remarkable pillar that glowed red, illuminated by sunlight reflected from the surrounding snow.

With the thaw in early June, we were already ready to lay siege to it, determined to complete within a week the new crag that would take the name “Scudo dei Celti.”

We finished the work just in time to see, with the arrival of the first warm days, climbers eager to spend a pleasant vertical day in a truly distinctive setting.

Barely another year passed and, once again with Stefano’s help, yet another new development arrived. Soon we were back at it, this time armed only with a brush and chalk.

After many days marching up and down the valley in search of stones to brush and caress, we created a charming “processional” route that leads the willing boulderer from the parking area to the top of the valley, stopping each time to pay homage to the next boulder along the way.

A special thanks also goes to Marcello Saletti, who at the time owned the Altaquota shop and provided us with much-needed bouldering crash pads, now available for rental directly at Rifugio Vittoria.

 

Today Marcello has changed jobs and dedicates himself to the noble art of the Environmental Hiking Guide, you can find him here www.emotionsadventure.it

 

Well, I recommend him, since I know him very well!!!


It is with great satisfaction that I inform you that my Brother Edoardo Montorsi, Aspiring Alpine Guide, together with two members of the "Alpinisti del Lambrusco" Group has opened a beautiful climbing route on the Altaretto bastion.

 

GOOD GUYS!!!!  ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤



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