Climbing

A magnificent valley of glacial origin!

The Valley of Lake Baccio

Text by Alpine Guide Stefano Nesti.

 

Introduction

 

This magnificent valley of glacial origin is part of the Monte Giovo / Rondinaio massif, and in fact it originates from the sides of these two superb peaks, delimited and barred to the west by the Altaretto ridge.

 

Already a terrain known and esteemed since always by both ski mountaineers and winter mountaineering enthusiasts, this massif, and in particular this valley, had not yet attracted the interest of rock climbers.

 

It was in the summer of 2005, thanks to the idea of Tex (Massimo Bernardi), Manager of the Vittoria refuge, with the help of the mountain guide Luca Montanari, that the first idea of climbing in the valley took shape.

 

So after a week of work and also thanks to the administration of the Frignano park, sensitive to the vertical cause of valorization in new terms of the area, the Falesia dei Celti took shape.

 

This natural rock gym, whose name recalls the ancient populations that inhabited the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines in the early Middle Ages, demonstrated that climbing in the valley was also possible.

 

Since this first crag was modest and mostly designed for beginner climbers, it was in the following year 2006 that the same Tex felt the need to offer a playground in "his lands" to those who already had a certain vertical experience.

 

This time, summoning the undersigned Stefano Nesti, also dedicated to the illustrious profession of mountain guide, we identified in the winter just gone by, a pillar of notable importance, lighting up in red irradiated by the sun reflected by the surrounding snow.

 

When the snow thawed in early June we were already ready for the siege, decided to build the new gym within the week that will see its name in the Scudo dei Celts.

 

We finished the work just in time to see the first warm weather arrive, climbers eager to spend a pleasant vertical day in a decidedly particular place.

Already in my countless ski mountaineering trips in the valley, I had seen interesting blocks of sandstone rising from the snow, but it was precisely in that week that I was able (during work breaks) to touch the boulders seen and note their interest for a possible day of bouldering.

 

Barely another year passed when the pressure of the good Massimo to offer yet another novelty came back in the summer of 2007. Soon we were back in the piece, this time armed only with a brush and chalk.

 

After several days of marching up and down the valley in search of rocks to brush and caress, we created a nice "processional" route that will lead the willing Boulderer, from the car park, to the top of the valley, stopping each time to pay homage to the boulder in question.

 

A special thanks also goes to Marcello Saletti, who when he was the owner of the Altaquota shop provided us with some providential bouldering mats, now available for rent directly at the Vittoria refuge.

 

Today Marcello has changed jobs and dedicates himself to the noble art of the Environmental Hiking Guide, you can find him here www.emotionsadventure.it

 

I recommend him, since I know him very well!!!


It is with great satisfaction that I inform you that my Brother Edoardo Montorsi, Aspiring Alpine Guide, together with two members of the "Alpinisti del Lambrusco" Group has opened a beautiful climbing route on the Altaretto bastion.

 

GOOD GUYS!!!!  ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤



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